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May 2017

The Global Feast: Writing about Food

Image: JeeYoung Lee, Broken Heart. © 2017 JeeYoung Lee. By arrangement with the artist and Opiom Gallery.

This month we welcome you to a banquet of international food writing. From simple greens in the hushed rooms of a Buddhist temple to an anarchic cookout in a teeming slum, in shipwrecked solitude or a bustling refugee camp, there's something on the menu to appeal to every palate. Forced to cook in her father's dive restaurant, Ananda Devi's young girl finds revenge is a dish best served hot. Argentine sensation Mariana Enriquez gets to the meat of the national dish. Jeon Sungtae meditates on meals turned sacramental. Greek cooking authority Diana Farr Louis reports on sustenance both figurative and literal in refugee camps. Kanako Nishi has a bone to pick with table manners. Manuel Vázquez Montalbán channels a gourmand Robinson Crusoe. In two nostalgic memoirs, Prasanta Mridha remembers that Bangla street food is right up his alley, and Moshe Sakal recalls one happy childhood in two culinary traditions. We thank our epicurean guest editor, Rohan Kamicheril. Elsewhere, we present four Basque poets, translated and introduced by Amaia Gabantxo.

We gratefully acknowledge the support of The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts.

Just Dinner, but Oh, What a Feast

Though food may fail to broker communication, this is often one of its major supposed roles.

Kari Disan

Soft, thick, hard, slippery, sour, fresh, raw, cooked: it was a journey into the shadows of flavor.

The Art and Horror of the Argentine Asado

The asado and political violence are linked in Argentina.


bilingual

Instructions for Eating Granny Ora’s Kibbeh

Israeli cuisine is a mystery, a black hole, a utopia.


bilingual

Not Bread Alone: Food and the Refugees in Greece

Whereas shelter and safety must come first, the question of food is so fundamental.

Delbahar and Ghee

The most astonishing thing about these men was their ability to eyeball measurements.


bilingual

A Meal of Solitude for a Restless Heart

I had never before paid so much attention to the act of eating.

All Desert Islands Are the Same

I have always thought it a gastronomical barbarity to eat bacalao fresh.

Fear of Manners

Day in and day out, so many personal habits can drive us crazy.

feature

Book Reviews

“The Accusation” by Bandi

Reviewed by John W. W. Zeiser

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